The Cowboys of Petite Camargue
If you want to understand the people of Petite Camargue and their soul, a visit to a Manade is highly recommended. In no other place, you can experience the deeply rooted tradition of bull and horse breed with the sometimes harsh nature. We follow the invitation of the Manade Martini and visit their farm in Franquevaux. During the summer months, the family opens their doors on Wednesdays and Fridays and invites visitors to get to know the life and work of a ”manadier”.
We do not yet know that we will experience a colorful spectacle. An all-round successful evening with excellent food, songs of the Camargue and social gathering with like-minded people. The mood is popular. We feel a lot of passion and commitment this evening.
In the first part of the evening, the “Ferrade” takes place. The young animals in the first year of life are drawn with numbers and the emblem of the manade. Only this way, the “Gardian” is able to recognize the individual animals in the vastness of the prairie. And if one of the herds escaped to find somewhere else lush grass, it can be caught with the lasso and assigned to the rightful owner.
Afterwards, with a long cart it goes to the field. The gardians and their 20 helpers in colorful shirts ride on their Camargue horses. The dull galloping of the hoofs mingles with the chattering of the tractor pulling the long cart with the visitors. We sit like chickens on it. Finally, a little show must be..
Now, let us see how they choose a single animal and separate it from the herd. The little bull has to come to a standstill in front of our carriage. Everybody is looking forward. The camera ready to take great pictures. The gardians circle the group and bounce across the fields in a breathtaking gallop. To the amusement of the visitors, today it does not work out, even in several attempts. A thunderstorm is in the suit, and the animals mess about the “Cowboys of the Camargue” . Bernard Fougairolles, the manadier, takes it with humor. «Allez, demi-tour on attaque l’apéro! »
With a glass of wine from the neighboring «Château Beaubois» vineyard and delicious mussels from the charcoal fire, we come to the actual goal of each manadier: Train a successful and famous bull for the Course Camarguaise. This brings not only fame and honor, but also some cash. The subject is polarizing. A lively discussion is starting. Does a bull, even if it is a sporting event and not a bloody occasion, belong to an arena? The Course Camarguaise. From May to the end of October, it dominates the agendas of the locals. It is always passionate and the fire in the eyes shines, when the name falls. The bull and the numerous events connected with it form the epicenter of the events. How can an outsider as visitor judge and reject this deeply rooted tradition?
With a spicy stew dish “Taureau à l’ancienne” and rice from local cultivation, we let us go well. When Régine Pascal, a well-known singer in the area, reaches for the microphone, the mood is great. The local audience sings with full throat. The songs are about the wild nature of the Camargue. Of love, freedom and heartache. We let go and enjoy the moment. As the anthem of the Camargue fades, the whole hall is seized. For a moment, the silence connects.
On the way home, we agree. Our Envie de Sud guests will enjoy a visit at the Manade Martini in Franquevaux. Good food and wine, animals for the children, an insight into the tradition and finally a little fun and patriotism – that fits for big and small. Young and older. And also for those without French knowledge!
Sincerely,
Ursula & Andreas