If you want to understand the people of Petite Camargue and their soul, a visit to a Manade is highly recommended. In no other place, you can experience the deeply rooted tradition of bull and horse breed with the sometimes harsh nature. We follow the invitation of the Manade Martini and visit their farm in Franquevaux. During the summer months, the family opens their doors on Wednesdays and Fridays and invites visitors to get to know the life and work of a ”manadier”.
We do not yet know that we will experience a colorful spectacle. An all-round successful evening with excellent food, songs of the Camargue and social gathering with like-minded people. The mood is popular. We feel a lot of passion and commitment this evening.

In the first part of the evening, the “Ferrade” takes place. The young animals in the first year of life are drawn with numbers and the emblem of the manade. Only this way, the “Gardian” is able to recognize the individual animals in the vastness of the prairie. And if one of the herds escaped to find somewhere else lush grass, it can be caught with the lasso and assigned to the rightful owner.
Afterwards, with a long cart it goes to the field. The gardians and their 20 helpers in colorful shirts ride on their Camargue horses. The dull galloping of the hoofs mingles with the chattering of the tractor pulling the long cart with the visitors. We sit like chickens on it. Finally, a little show must be..
Now, let us see how they choose a single animal and separate it from the herd. The little bull has to come to a standstill in front of our carriage. Everybody is looking forward. The camera ready to take great pictures. The gardians circle the group and bounce across the fields in a breathtaking gallop. To the amusement of the visitors, today it does not work out, even in several attempts. A thunderstorm is in the suit, and the animals mess about the “Cowboys of the Camargue” . Bernard Fougairolles, the manadier, takes it with humor. «Allez, demi-tour on attaque l’apéro! »

With a glass of wine from the neighboring «Château Beaubois» vineyard and delicious mussels from the charcoal fire, we come to the actual goal of each manadier: Train a successful and famous bull for the Course Camarguaise. This brings not only fame and honor, but also some cash. The subject is polarizing. A lively discussion is starting. Does a bull, even if it is a sporting event and not a bloody occasion, belong to an arena? The Course Camarguaise. From May to the end of October, it dominates the agendas of the locals. It is always passionate and the fire in the eyes shines, when the name falls. The bull and the numerous events connected with it form the epicenter of the events. How can an outsider as visitor judge and reject this deeply rooted tradition?

With a spicy stew dish “Taureau à l’ancienne” and rice from local cultivation, we let us go well. When Régine Pascal, a well-known singer in the area, reaches for the microphone, the mood is great. The local audience sings with full throat. The songs are about the wild nature of the Camargue. Of love, freedom and heartache. We let go and enjoy the moment. As the anthem of the Camargue fades, the whole hall is seized. For a moment, the silence connects.

On the way home, we agree. Our Envie de Sud guests will enjoy a visit at the Manade Martini in Franquevaux. Good food and wine, animals for the children, an insight into the tradition and finally a little fun and patriotism – that fits for big and small. Young and older. And also for those without French knowledge!
Sincerely,
Ursula & Andreas

Since my earliest childhood, I have been hiking. I love it. Andreas fortunately too. On my big adventure trips, I was a lot on foot. Whether on Mount Kenya, through the steppes and deserts of Mongolia, among thousands of mosquitoes in the Amazon and, of course, in the Swiss mountains. Hiking frees the soul and opens my mind.
Our new home Vauvert and surroundings offers ideal conditions all year round. The terrain is also perfect for all people having had a knee or hip surgery to which we also count. It is hardly a height meter to overcome. No annoying descents with wobbly knees. Perfect for us and certainly for many of our future Envie de Sud guests.

Today I go on my own. I start directly from our door. I plan to walk a little along the Way of St. James. Vauvert is an area on the pilgrimage route Via Tolosana. I decide to go a bit in the opposite direction. I am not really pilgrim. My plan: walk through the Costières de Nîmes to the Franquevaux hamlet and from there follow the Canal de Rhône à Sète to Gallician and further on the Voie Verte back to Vauvert. In my estimation, this is about 20 km.
The only 80 meters of altitude, I pass immediately behind our house and I am already on the plateau of the Costières de Nîmes. Wonderful views. I am marching forward. I see the Pic St. Loup and the silhouette of the Cevennes. In the other direction, the concrete pyramids of La Grande Motte. On clear days in  winter times, you can see the Alps.
The vines become denser every day. I wander and wander. The sun is shining and my drinking bottle is getting lighter. It has long been clear that I have to adapt my hiking destination. No wonder. I have taken the liberty to ignore the signs. My stomach tells me that everything is fine. A premonition is in the air. I will immediately experience something unexpected. My instinct. When I see the village sign Beauvoisin a short time later, I am surprised. I am only about 5 km from the Envie de Sud in airline, but I walked almost 3 hours. Apparently zigzagged.

And then, the surprise emerges. Right at the village entrance, small stamp-like graffiti on the doorways of the house struck me. The motifs show typical symbols of the environment. A bull, a flamingo, a rider on a horse, an Arlésienne. They are always monochrome in red, black, green or blue. They all also wear a date. 2002. 1985. 2012. And the letters VLJ. According to the age, the pictures and letters are faded. I discover more and more motifs and now I want to know what it is all about. My neighbor Michel, with his 87 years, is a living history book and knows immediately what I am talking about while visiting him later.
Empègues are the names of these graffitis. They date far back. At the window of the “Les Aubades” restaurant, there is one of 1894. I will go back again. At the beginning of the 20th century, the young men celebrated this custom before entering the military service. Today it still lives. The military service as such is no longer there. But the custom still wants to be celebrated and also the girls join today. The letter VLJ means “Vive la Jeunesse. Long live the youth.” The boys who reach the adult age gather together a few days before the local fête votive and go from door to door to make a punt for the upcoming party or sell pastry. The grateful owners of the house receive a nice reception to the wall of the house. “The ones who have many, prove that they are generous. Visible to everyone. That is important.” Michel summarizes laughing.
Also in other places of the Petite Camargue this custom is visible. “In Vauvert, the classic empègues have been replaced by colorful stickers,” Michel explains. Some homeowners worry about the image of their façade and so the “Mairie” decided so a few years ago. “It’s a pity, as a big street art fan, the classic Empègues would be much better,” I say to Michel.
The season of fête votive in all places of the environment begins in mid-June. Every weekend, party is ongoing somewhere. Or in this case the bull. In summary, the traditional summer festival with local customs around bull and horse, music, dance, market and quite a lot of rosé. In Vauvert, this highlight of social life will take place from 12 to 20 August 2017.
Do not miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in the local culture. We look forward seeing you.
Sincerely
Ursula & Andreas

With pleasure, we follow the invitation of Jean-Jacques, Ambassadeur du patrimone, who invites us to explore the area by bike. Jean-Jacques runs a bike rental next to Envie de Sud. www.tourismavelo.fr In addition to normal two-wheelers, he also has e-bikes on offer. On request with child seat or trailer. Jean-Jacques pays attention to safety and checks first the air pressure of our bicycles brought along. Repair kit, spare hose, pump and drinking water – he has everything. He leaves nothing to chance.

On a map, he shows us the route. We will drive from Vauvert towards the sea. From Costières of Nîmes, following the irrigation canals and orchards along étangs, further following the Canal du Rhône à Sête and turning off at the Pont de Tourradons and cycling back to Vauvert past pastures. In the shadow, a herd of bulls rests, and a small group of horses raises their heads curiously, as we pass by. The distance is about 25 km. Ideal for a small afternoon trip. The terrain is mostly flat and the mistral blows moderately today. It rolls almost by itself.

On the way Jean-Jacques explains passionately the landscape and its history. The Camargue Gardoise, so he emphasizes, exerts a special appeal to visitors all year round. But only with the knowledge of history, flora and fauna the soul of this landscape opens up. In fact, it happens to us. We cannot stop looking at this marvelous landscape and Jean-Jacques story-telling and presence makes the trip a real experience.

The next time we plan to cycle to Grau-du-roi via Aigues-Mortes and the 14th Grand Site de France “Les Marais de la Carbonnière”. And if we are tired after the bathing and strolling, we take the bicycles on the train and relaxed we travel back to the Envie de Sud.

Sincerely Ursula & Andreas